This exceptional brooch, adorned with rubies, natural pearls, and diamonds, once part of the vast jewel collection belonging to Empress Eugénie, the last Empress of France, was sold in late September to an anonymous buyer. Regrettably, this exquisite item will not be on display.
In its seventh edition, GemGenève proudly presents a poetic exhibition titled “The Pearl Odyssey.” This extraordinary showcase features over forty exquisite jewels and outstanding pieces, embodying the show’s unwavering dedication to promoting the artistry of jewelry. Collaborating in this unprecedented venture, Chaumet, the Flee Project collective, the Alfardan Collection, a significant private collector, and various partner exhibitors including Faerber-Collection, Heritage Gems, Horovitz & Totah SA, Joseph Gad, Nicolas Torroni, Ocean Flame, Swiss Pearls, and others have united to display their most magnificent items.
The exhibition, with its immersive ambiance, delves into the enchanting world of pearl divers in the Persian Gulf and beyond. The journey continues into a realm of creativity, unveiling imperial jewels, exceptional pearls, and exclusive historic pieces from esteemed private collections. These treasures reflect the diverse styles and fashions that have prevailed throughout the ages. The exhibition culminates in a scientific exploration, presenting the history of pearl study since the last century, organized with the support of the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF). This segment focuses on the vital distinctions between natural and cultured pearls, providing a comprehensive overview of the expert techniques employed to assess the quality and origin of pearls from around the globe.
As Ronny Totah, an enthusiast and specialist in natural pearls, aptly puts it, “The perfect nature of natural pearls lies in their inherent imperfection, making each pearl unique, with its distinct size, shape, color, and sheen. From round to tear-shaped, pearls exhibit a mesmerizing array of hues, from pure white to dark black, including shades like pink, champagne, and iridescent blue-green reminiscent of insects’ wings.”
Pearls, once considered outdated and too traditional, have made a remarkable resurgence in the world of jewelry in recent years. Symbolizing wealth, prestige, and femininity, pearl jewels have transcended ages, fashions, and styles with unparalleled elegance. Constantly elevated by daring jewelers, pearls hold a special place in the history of jewelry. “The Pearl Odyssey” retraces the captivating story of pearls and their enduring tradition. Through a carefully curated selection of thirty outstanding pieces from esteemed private and heritage collections, alongside previously unseen projects and archival materials, visitors can explore the creativity and expertise developed around the world’s oldest jewel and delve into the science of pearls.
The Miracle of Pearls
This striking Devant-de-corsage ornament brooch, created by Vever in 1900, is a remarkable piece from the Faerber Collection. The photograph is credited to Katharina Faerber, showcasing the intricate craftsmanship and timeless elegance of this extraordinary jewelry item.
Pearls are as marvelous as they are enigmatic. Whether through miracle or accident, a pearl-producing shellfish forms a tiny concretion that it envelops with thin layers of mother-of-pearl. Eventually, a natural pearl emerges, displaying colors ranging from bright white to dark black or shades of grey, blue, green, or purple. Oceans worldwide, from Japan to South America, Australia to Sri Lanka, and through the Mozambique Channel, have served as vital grounds for pearl diving throughout history. These marine gems have been sought after and admired for their beauty for millennia.
The oldest pearl harvested by humans, over 8,500 years old, was discovered in Mexico. In ancient China, pearls were offered to gods and sovereigns, captivating imaginations with their mysterious origins. From mermaids’ tears to dragon’s spit, the origins of pearls have inspired legends across cultures. During the Roman Empire, pearls symbolized luxury and fortune, experiencing their first golden age as the preferred jewel among the elite. For centuries, pearl divers risked their lives, diving up to forty meters deep in the Persian Gulf region, forming a rich heritage inseparable from the history of pearl farming.
Pearls in the History of Jewelry
Noble and elegant, pearls have fascinated jewelers across civilizations. The oldest piece of pearl jewelry, a three-row necklace of 216 pearls, was discovered in Iran in 1901, belonging to a Persian princess who lived over 2,500 years ago. From Catherine de Medici to Empress Eugénie, natural pearls have adorned powerful and influential women. The Renaissance marked a golden age of pearls, gracing jewelry sets, crowns, and embroidered garments.
In the nineteenth century, pearls experienced a renaissance, with mother-of-pearl elegance prized more than the sparkle of diamonds. Fabulous jewels emerged, featuring oversized versions of iconic pearl necklaces. Pearl jewelry underwent a renaissance, with renowned houses like Chaumet, Cartier, and Vever exploring creative avenues. Baroque pearls inspired extravagant designs, becoming limitless sources of inspiration for jewelers. Throughout Art Nouveau, the Roaring Twenties, and Art Deco eras, pearls adapted to the times, sublimated in daring and imaginative ways by jewelers.
Intriguing, timeless, and elegantly mysterious, pearls have truly stood the test of time, captivating hearts and minds across centuries. “The Pearl Odyssey” invites you to embark on this enchanting journey through the ages, appreciating the unique allure and enduring beauty of pearls in the world of jewelry.
The Science of Pearls
The origins of cultured pearls trace back to the late nineteenth century in Japan, marking a pivotal moment in the world of jewelry. While William Saville-Kent cultivated a pearl in Australia, it was Kokichi Mikimoto who intentionally introduced a foreign body into an oyster, stimulating the secretion of mother-of-pearl around it, creating the first cultured pearl in 1893. By 1905, a method for producing perfectly spherical cultured pearls was developed, revolutionizing pearl farming.
This breakthrough, however, raised intriguing questions. Did cultured pearls possess all the qualities of their natural counterparts, formed without human intervention? Joseph Chaumet, a pioneer in gemmology, examined these new pearls in his lab in 1922. His research laid the foundation for pearl classification, differentiating between natural and cultured pearls. Over time, this expertise evolved, leading to the formalization of recognized terminology for classifying pearl-forming shellfish and their production. Today, laboratory analysis plays a vital role in assessing pearl quality and determining their origins.
The Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF) stands as a global benchmarking laboratory for this specialized field since 1972. Dedicated to research, education, and training of leading experts, SSEF offers specialized training courses open to professionals and enthusiasts seeking expertise in expert appraisals of natural pearls, cultured pearls, and freshwater pearls. The exhibition owes its existence to the support of Chaumet, the Flee Project collective, the Alfardan Collection, SSEF, a private collection, and collaborative efforts with partner exhibitors such as Joseph Gad, Faerber Collection, Horovitz & Totah, Ocean Flame, Nicolas Torroni, and many others. Special recognition is extended to Autre Idée design agency, Lumens8, Ferrari, Anglo-belge, and Hofer Antikschmuck for their invaluable partnerships, enhancing the splendor of this unique event.
About GemGenève
GemGenève stands as a unique hub where jewelry designers, precious stone dealers, retailers, collectors, and enthusiasts converge. Over four days, it provides a platform to acquire exceptional pieces and be inspired by a community of gemmology and jewelry specialists. It’s not just an exhibition; it’s a laboratory of creativity and innovation, a space where recognized designers and emerging talents unite. GemGenève is a world of design, rare gems, and antique and contemporary jewelry.
Created by exhibitors, GemGenève fosters expression and exchange, encompassing passion, expertise, and education. It brings together the finest in the world of gemstones and jewelry, offering a glimpse into the intricate world of craftsmanship and artistry.
Event Details
The exhibition will open to the public from November 2 to 5, 2023, at Palexpo Hall 6, conveniently located at Route François-Peyrot 30, 1218 – Le Grand-Saconnex GE, Switzerland. Just a brief ten-minute walk from Geneva Airport, this exceptional event awaits your presence.
Operating hours are from 10 a.m. to 6.30 p.m. daily, with the cash desk closing at 5.30 p.m. on Sunday, November 5. Admission to this extraordinary showcase is CHF 50.00, granting access for the entire duration of the exhibition. For young enthusiasts under 18 and students with a valid student card, entry is free.
Join us at GemGenève, where we invite you to immerse yourself in a world where the rich history, intricate artistry, and fascinating science of pearls come together in a celebration of one of nature’s most enchanting treasures.
This exquisite Pearl and Diamond Bracelet, a creation by Cartier from 1962, is a stunning piece from the Faerber Collection. The photograph is credited to Katharina Faerber, capturing the timeless beauty and elegance of this remarkable bracelet.
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GemGenève 7th Edition: International Show Dedicated to Jewellery Professionals
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